Second creative director within a year: Stefano Gallici makes his debut with Ann Demeulemeester

A design debut is always highly anticipated, but Belgian fashion brand Ann Demeulemeester’s show had even more reasons as to why people kept an eye out. For it was not the first time this year that a designer showed a collection for the first time. Indeed, earlier this year Ludovic de Saint Sernin made his debut, but already disappeared from the scene after his first collection. Now it was Stefano Gallici’s turn.

Gallici made his debut as creative director of the Belgian fashion brand during Paris Fashion Week. The signature interplay of black and white that founder Ann Demeulemeester was so well known for remained, but two colours were added to the palette this time: cobalt blue and khaki green. A surprise for the public.

The collection had many details of fringes and straps. A multitude of sheer dresses, some cargo trousers, as well as leather aprons were on show. There was also a lot of leather in the collection. Not only as belts and aprons, but also around arms and other body parts.

Gallici seems to understand the essence of Ann Demeulemeester. It is not without reason, however, as the designer also worked behind the scenes at the brand for three years. He was responsible for menswear there at the time. In his debut collection, the brand’s dark atmosphere is well complemented by sophisticated cuts and eye-catching details. The question remains whether Gallici will stay longer than his predecessor De Saint Sernin, but at least the tone seems already set.