PFW SS24 key items: tailored separates, flirty skirts and more

Fashion Week in Paris was held between September 26 and October 3,
2023 with around 140 brands showing their collections for the
spring/summer 2024 season. When it came to essential items for store
buyers to review, it was a case of ‘minimalism versus maximalism’ so
varied were the choices. Here are five of the most important
silhouettes.

1) The oversized jacket

The popularity with consumers of the ‘quiet luxury’ trend was clear
for all to see this season. Tailored separates took center stage in all
of the major fashion cities, none more prevalent in Paris than the
oversized suit jacket.

Carven: designer, Louise Trotter

Look 6: an oversized lightweight wool one-button jacket with broad
shoulders over a matching top, and a sheer below-the-knee skirt.
Accessories included a red pendant on a leather thong and nude blunt
toe slippers.

Dries Van Noten

Look 14: an oversized double-breasted tan jacket with four patch
pockets over matching Bermuda shorts, accessorized with patterned
socks, houndstooth lace-up shoes with a curved heel.

Gauchere: designer, Marie-Christine Statz

Look 1: a black oversized thigh-length blazer over a nude and white
double turtle-neck top and black leather mini-skirt with black
accessories.

Givenchy: designer, Matthew M. Williams

Look 13: an oversized double-breasted pastel jacket over a cream
blouse and long brown satin skirt. A cream clutch, yellow hose and
shoes completed the look.

Stella McCartney

Look 44: a pale blue oversized shawl collared one button jacket with
matching overlong pants, lilac lace-up flats and a small diamante
covered mini bag with a long fringe at Stella McCartney .

2) The Trench Coat

The prevalence of classic looking trench coats in Paris was another
example of how the ‘quiet luxury trend’ has captured the
imagination of the ready-to-wear consumer. Mostly they were rendered
in the same waterproofed cotton gabardine originally developed by
Thomas Burberry.

Maison Margiela: designer, John Galliano

Look 8: a taupe colored trench coat with a one-button closure and a
self-belt shown over a white blouse with print cuffs.

Saint Laurent: designer, Anthony Vaccarello

Look 43: a double-breasted khaki trench coat with a standup collar
featuring a belt and buckle, a storm flap, epaulets and tortoiseshell
buttons. It was shown over a black suit and brown belt.

Dries van Noten

Look 7: a floor-length double-breasted khaki trench coat with a storm
flap and tortoiseshell buttons, shown over a striped shirt and
patterned leotard. Accessories included socks with a geometric pattern
and suede athletic shoes.

Balenciaga: designer, Demna

Look 3: a classically designed trench coat with a rounded collar and
storm flaps, in two shades of light beige. A black handbag with a
keychain made up of padlocks, black hose and pumps completed the look.

Christian Dior: designer, Maria Grazia Chiuri

Look 32: a double-breasted trench coat with a back belt, a storm flap,
epaulets, belted cuffs and an embroidered version of the Dior bee. It
was shown with a tan colored handbag and strappy black flats with
pearl closures.

3) The flirty skirt

Short, layered and ruffled skirts reminiscent of the ‘80’s ‘ra ra’
skirt, styled in a variety of different ways, showed up on several
runways.

Vaquera, designers, Patric DiCaprio and Bryn Taubensee

Look 65: a black two layered ruffled mini skirt with a vee panel front
teamed with a cropped bomber jacket in olive khaki and matching bra
top. Accessories included a white beret and slippers.

Miu Miu, designer, Miuccia Prada

Look 4: a micro-mini skirt of white multi-layers with a blue stretch
waistband and white lace-up tie. The rest of the outfit consisted of a
blue check shirt, navy sweater and crested blazer. Accessories
included aviator glasses and thong sandals.

Loewe, designer, Jonathan Anderson

Look 20: a black layered mini skirt with a long, ruffled train and a
brown plaid shirt under a beige vee neck sweater. Accessories included
a black snakeskin hobo bag, and black thong platform sandals.

Az Factory: designers, Norman René Devera and Peter Movrin

Look 5: a short, layered skirt with a flat daisy print on a pink
background and a matching button-down shirt with white cuffs. Black
marabou trimmed slippers completed the look.

Balmain, designer, Oliver Rousteing

Look 12: a pink multi-pleated two layered short skirt under a bright
green double-breasted blazer with gold buttons, mismatched earrings
and blue patent blunt toe slippers.

4) The bra top and skirt combination

A bra top matched to a skirt is another favorite from the 1980s.
Fabrics ranged from chiffon and silk to leather and lace.

Elie Saab

Look 37: a coral-colored lace bra over a green turquoise one and a
matching double layered lace ankle-length skirt with red ankle strap
platform sandals and a woven straw handheld bag.

Hermès: designer, Nadège Vanhee

Look 23: a brown ribbed bralette with trim and a matching skirt with
detachable waistband. Accessories included large hoop earrings, brown
hobo bag and brown sandals.

Ottolinger: designers, Christa Bösch and Cosima Gadient

Look 40: a black bandeau top and matching briefs under a deconstructed
white lace skirt with black and white ribbon ties and silver sparkling
flip flops.

Rick Owens

Look 11: a narrow black bralette and high-waisted black leather skirt,
tight-fitting to the knee and then with a flare.

Giambattista Valli

Look 41: a white bra with diamante straps and body-jewelry to match
with a sheer heavily embroidered skirt. Embellished silver sandals
completed the look.

5) The balloon sleeves

Adding balloon sleeves to a variety of different silhouettes was an
off-shoot of the maximalist trend.

CFCL: designer, Yusuke Takahashi

Look 5: a black below-the-knee dress in a variegated rib-knit with
balloon sleeves over a silver lurex knit, a black bucket hat and black
strappy sandals.

Chloé: designer, Gabriela Hearst

Look 23: a mid-length silver leather fitted dress with a deep vee
front and big balloon sleeves. Accessories included a large silver
pendant and white strappy sandals.

Cecilie Bahn

Look 19: a short dress in a large sized pink and white gingham check
with a balloon hem, ruffled embellishments and balloon sleeves. Black
socks and flats finished the look.

Louis Vuitton: designer, Nicolas Ghesquière

Look 14 : a satin finish plaid blouse with a rolled neck, balloon
sleeves and a reworked logo, over straight jeans, an oversized belt
and black bag.

Sacai: designer, Chitose Abe

Look 25: a thick knit sweater in a green, brown and blue fair-isle
pattern with balloon sleeves over a sheer knee-length skirt, sheer
socks and ankle boots.