Copenhagen reimagined: Mandatory as an alternative to big trade fairs?

At a time when the landscape of fashion trade shows is evolving rapidly and many traditional formats are losing relevance, Mandatory CPH aims to establish itself as a response to the changing needs of the industry. Launched last June, the event positions itself as a more intimate, cost-efficient, and time-effective alternative to large-scale trade fairs. Prioritising quality over quantity – both in terms of exhibitors and visitors – Mandatory CPH aims to offer a carefully curated experience.

“The market was incredibly bulimic last year,” explains trade show veteran and Mandatory co-founder Clara Leone in conversation with FashionUnited. Previously the director of the Revolver fashion fair, Leone remained in charge until its acquisition by rival show CIFF in January 2023. She continued working there for another year and a half but soon realised the platform was no longer the right fit for her. Together with former CIFF co-director Mads Petersen, she began exploring new ways to reshape the trade fair landscape.

“It was time to create a project with a clear vision, even if it doesn’t appeal to everyone. Buyers, retailers, and brands have neither the time nor the budget to waste. If they make the effort to attend a trade show, they should find exactly what they’re looking for.”

A concept-store experience rather than a traditional trade show

With a carefully selected line-up of 200 brands, Mandatory CPH has opted for a concept store atmosphere instead of the conventional trade fair format – only invited and curated brands are allowed to participate. The design of the 5,000-square-metre venue is structured around brand islands that complement one another naturally, creating an open and relaxed setting reminiscent of modern retail concepts. Unlike many industry events that focus on continuous growth, Mandatory plans to remain true to its philosophy – prioritising the quality of connections over footfall numbers, which is why attendance figures are not disclosed, according to Leone.

Leone herself, alongside her team, personally welcomed visitors as they entered the former market hall. Names, tickets, and wristbands were exchanged calmly and efficiently. Instead of rushing straight to the first brand presentations, guests were encouraged to start the day with a coffee, fostering a relaxed and unhurried atmosphere.

However, the laid-back ambiance did not mean that things were quiet behind the scenes. While guests queued for a caffeine fix at 9 in the morning, brands were already busy preparing for their first appointments of the day. The sense of ease established at the entrance extended throughout the event, with no trace of stress or urgency. In fact, as the day progressed, the atmosphere only became more inviting. To the sound of jazzy, rhythmic tunes, lively conversations mingled with the subtle scent of candles from Studio Teket—a self-described niche lifestyle agency concept with Scandinavian roots, positioned between the entrance and the lounge.

The inaugural edition of Mandatory CPH took place last summer, pulled together in just a few weeks. From the outset, the organisers knew the event wouldn’t be perfect—mistakes would be made, lessons learned, and adjustments implemented. The most notable change since then has been the timing. Initially, Mandatory broke away from the traditional fashion calendar, which brings buyers to Copenhagen in early August. Rather than following the schedule dictated by Copenhagen Fashion Week and CIFF, Mandatory opted for an earlier date in late June.

The idea behind this timing shift was to allow buyers to allocate budgets that are often depleted by August. However, for the January edition, this approach was revised, with the event running alongside Copenhagen Fashion Week and CIFF. “We want to support Copenhagen Fashion Week,” explains Leone. “As long as it makes sense and creates business opportunities for brands, we will align with it to maximise their commercial potential.”

Whether the summer edition will return to its June slot remains to be seen. Some brands and buyers at Mandatory expressed a preference for synchronising with CIFF, as this would help optimise travel costs and schedules. For a new trade show like Mandatory, running parallel to an established event such as CIFF can also be beneficial, attracting visitors and creating more buzz in Copenhagen’s Meatpacking District. Sebastian Ross, Head of Sales International at Drykorn, shares this view, noting an increase in visitor traffic.

Different markets, different strategies

Ultimately, high visitor numbers and walk-in traffic are not the main focus of Mandatory CPH. The show—broadly divided into menswear and womenswear, with each category occupying one side of the venue—operates primarily on pre-arranged appointments. This structure is evident even on its website, where retailers can connect with exhibiting brands in advance. However, most brands still take the initiative in reaching out to buyers with whom they wish to do business at the show, as Sofie Bertelsen Raven, Brand and Marketing Manager at Palmes, explained: “We reached out to our existing Danish clients and potential new ones, set up meetings with them, and did all the groundwork ourselves.”

The menswear label had only just returned from Paris, where most of its international appointments take place. For them, Mandatory CPH is an opportunity to “meet new people, connect with new clients, and see where it takes us.” While the fair felt relaxed – or, as she later admitted, quiet – buyers dropped by to make their initial selections for orders. “Now we’re waiting for them to finalise their purchases. It’s a bit of a waiting game.”

This was the brand’s second time exhibiting at Mandatory, having switched from CIFF last summer in favour of the smaller, more focused format. And while the venue didn’t feel particularly busy on Wednesday morning, Raven noted a significant improvement in footfall – and business – compared to the previous edition. However, like many others at the event, she remained reserved about providing concrete figures, reflecting a general trend across the fair. Here, positive energy and constructive exchanges seemed to hold greater value than hard sales figures – at least on the surface.

For Drykorn, the trade show serves primarily as a brand presence opportunity. The label, which occupied a large stand in the womenswear section while also showcasing its menswear collection, used the event as a preliminary step before inviting retailers to its showroom, where final orders are placed. A similar approach is taken by Danish brand Soulland, which, after a week of back-to-back order meetings in Paris, exhibited at Mandatory before bringing buyers into its showroom the following week. For brands like these, the trade show acts as a touchpoint, helping to prepare buyers for orders, although some do place their purchases directly on-site – albeit rarely.

Meanwhile, Dutch sportswear brand Pal Sporting Goods shares a similar perspective to Palmes. “This is our second season at Mandatory – we were here for the first Spring/Summer edition, and it went really well,” says Yasmina Azhoum, Creative Producer Sales, speaking to FashionUnited.

The brand’s stand was surrounded by like-minded labels such as Dickies, Filson, and Blundstone—brands that would seamlessly sit alongside each other in a well-curated department store. “There are some really great brands here—the selection is a perfect fit for us. This is exactly what we were looking for,” says Azhoum.

This sense of cohesion and careful curation was evident across the entire fair, extending to the colour palettes on display. Many brands aligned visually, with neutral tones and earthy hues dominating the scene—from rust red and deep caramel to forest green. Classic shades like black and white remained staples, often accented with pops of bold red and cobalt blue.

The brand originally found its way to the trade show through a long-standing friendship between its founder and the organisers. However, its return to the more intimate setting of Mandatory now seems to be a deliberate choice. This time around, Pal Sporting Goods is not primarily focused on securing large order volumes but rather on strengthening relationships with its partners, having recently taken back control of distribution for Scandinavia, Germany, and the UK. “If buyers want to make selections here, we encourage them to do so and then send them a lookbook and line sheet. However, our main priority is simply to be present, gain a deeper understanding of the Scandinavian market and retailers, and hopefully expand in the long run.”

Trade shows closer to home, such as Amsterdam’s Modefabriek, or even nearby events in Germany, wouldn’t be the right fit for the brand, explains Azhoum, which is why a showroom in Paris remains the only other fixture in its trade fair calendar. This approach is shared by many brands at Mandatory. Paris, according to the Creative Producer, is where the brand meets its international clientele—from French and Dutch to Asian and British buyers—whereas Mandatory is all about the Scandinavian market. This is something Leone is not only well aware of but actively encourages.

“We are focused on the local market—Sweden, Norway, Denmark,” she says. “We have always had international ambitions and are very good at bringing international visitors here. But at its core, this is and will remain a local trade show.”

That said, international buyers were not only welcomed but actively encouraged to attend—registration and entry were free for them—with a select few, including Slam Jam, Rinascente, and Printemps, personally invited.

A Seamless Experience and a ‘Family Gathering’

However, the buyer programme wasn’t the only seamless experience that Mandatory had to offer. “We wanted to ensure that everyone could focus entirely on the reason they’re here, so when setting up the event, we made sure that food, drinks, and coffee were provided. We don’t want our exhibitors or visitors to have to worry about anything,” says Leone.

This vision was brought to life in the form of a large, oval, tent-like structure at the centre of the venue, housing an omelette station, complimentary snacks, drinks, and coffee, along with sofas and tables for networking. And that’s precisely what happened. Even after the morning coffee rush, the stands and aisles still seemed noticeably quieter than the lively, social atmosphere around the catering area.

While networking may not be the primary goal of Mandatory, the event offers plenty of opportunities for buyers and brand representatives to connect between meetings—and these opportunities are being eagerly embraced. This reinforces something Leone had previously stated—a phrase often used in the fashion and creative industries but, in this case, remarkably fitting.

“We’ve been in this industry for nearly two decades and have always had close personal ties with the brands we work with—many of them we consider close friends. And it’s precisely these strong personal relationships that matter, especially when the economic climate is uncertain. In times like these, trust and loyalty mean everything.”

This article originally appeared on FashionUnited.DE, translated and edited to English.