A store to entice the senses: Pangaia opens first UK retail spot in London

Pangaia, the apparel brand that takes a science-based approach to production, has chosen the city of London to launch its debut UK store. Located on Carnaby Street, the 1,500 square foot space is the second standalone store the brand has opened to date, and looks to serve as an extension of Pangaia itself, reflecting its ecocentric values in an interior housing a genderless collection of “earth-conscious” apparel.

The current retail climate and saturation of the market – a one that has increasingly become reliant on e-commerce, particularly in the UK – calls for a physical format that can cater to not just sales, but also the wider interests of potential consumers. This, combined with Pangaia’s reliance and emphasis on sustainable consciousness informed the design of the store itself. As such, every element of the interior has been a one of intentional decision, from the use of vegan paint floor-to-ceiling to the choice of metal structures in place of plastic to processes controlling heat, avoiding any overuse of air conditioning.

“We have meticulously designed the space to immerse our customers to reconnect with nature and find a sense of calm as we look to give back more than we take from our environment,” the Pangaia collective said in an interview with FashionUnited. “The physical space also provides an opportunity for us to connect with our customers on a personal level, enhancing the customer experience and bringing our brand story to life in a tangible setting.”

A reconnection with nature

Before even stepping into the store, passersby are already likely to be drawn in by an auspicious cobalt blue sphere installation in the window, created to symbolise Mother Earth while further emphasising an “interconnectedness with our surroundings”. This sits over a bed of plants gathered by regenerative planting provider Wayward, which for the most part brought in native plants and trees representative of English woodlands.

Once inside – spanning over two floors – Pangaia’s signature block-coloured products sit among a neutral backdrop of light earth tones, creating what the collective describe as a calm atmosphere that departs from the hustle and bustle of the streets, yet still attempts to entice curiosity. To achieve this, Pangaia looked to play with the senses, bringing in textural details like oak wood for tables and natural aromas that fill the room.

Unlike the stores of many other brands that are increasing their reliance on incorporating digital in-person features, tech in the Pangaia location is almost entirely stripped back, bar a nature-themed projection spiralling down the stairs and QR codes that, once scanned, take shoppers to more information about the displayed garments. Brief educational notes referencing each of the offered collections are also readily available to those wanting to know more about the complexities and science behind the products.

Among the collections are Pangaia’s kidswear line; its Frutfiber line of items derived of cellulose fibres sourced from bananas and pineapples that are blended with bamboo lyocell; and its plant-stretched activewear, made from biobased Evo Nylon sourced from castor beans. In addition to these is the inclusion of the newly launched Linen Capsule 2.0 and Aloe Linen Capsule, a button-up shirt and shorts combo made from 100 percent linen that has been treated with aloe vera treatment to make the material hypoallergenic and softer.

Physical retail marks more positive outlook

The store opening, meanwhile, marks what appears to be a more promising outlook for the brand, which in 2022 was reportedly facing mounting financial losses as sales were said to have dropped 42 percent. The shock decline led the company to reevaluate its approach to business and carry out a restructuring, according to a report by Business of Fashion earlier this year, which further stated that due to this immediate action, Pangaia was back on the track of profitability for 2023.

A permanent standalone space is also a shift on Pangaia’s initial approach to a physical presence. Previously, and next to its core e-commerce platform, the brand had largely stuck to concessions, shop-in-shops and pop-ups in its main markets, including a space in London’s Selfridges, the US’ Bloomingdales and other premium department stores across Europe. This strategy, however, already showed signs of undergoing change mid-2023 when Pangaia opened a location in Dubai’s airport, its first global permanent store and first travel retail store.

The choice of Carnaby Street is reflective of Pangaia’s mission in the UK, where it has built up a “strong, loyal customer base” over the past five years. Here, in the heart of what is often seen as the “edgier” side to Soho, the brand is surrounded by the likes of Sweaty Betty, Axel Arigato, Ba&sh, Ganni and Rejina Ryo, names that each draw in a distinct audience of fashion-forward yet, typically, conscious consumers.

“We believe now is the perfect time to open our own space and create an environment that truly embodies our values,” the Pangaia collective noted. “Having a physical space allows us to bring our brand to life in a way that resonates more deeply with our community. Carnaby Street in London, with its dynamic energy and cultural significance, offers the ideal setting for us to establish our home.”

It is not yet known whether there will be a further expansion on the retail front, with the collective remaining tight-lipped on future plans. However, from this base, which is seen as a “natural progression” for the brand, Pangaia plans to establish a hub for “creativity, innovation and connection”, allowing it to host events, collaborate with local communities and engage with its audience in meaningful ways. “To us, this isn’t just a store–it’s a place where our values, purpose and community can thrive together,” the collective concluded.