A guide to French political fashion

France is in the midst of two of its favourite
pastimes: political turmoil and fashion week — two worlds that increasingly
collide.

Fashion writer Marc Beauge, who has advised at least one president, walked
AFP through the evolving style rules for French politicians.

For male politicians, he said, a simple uniform has become dominant: a navy
blue suit — fitted and generally a little too slim — with a white shirt and
thin tie.

“It signals respectability, authority and above all a lack of ostentation.
It’s middling quality and can’t be accused of elegance,” said Beauge.

This is particularly popular among centrists and social democrats, and is
the go-to look for President Emmanuel Macron, even though practically no one
in France wears such outfits in the street or office anymore — least of all
the start-up crowd Macron favours.

The president has changed styles since calling the snap election last week,
however — to funereal black suits.

“There’s no more blue and grey,” said Beauge. “It’s a way of showing the
gravity of the moment.”

Women politicians have largely abandoned the neat designer outfits of the
past in a bid to look less elitist.

“It’s always the same trouser-and-jacket combos that ensure no sexist
commentary, but which risk making them invisible,” said Beauge.

Socialist Segolene Royale, once known for her preppy Chanel tweeds,
headbands and knee-length skirts, went decidedly more demure by the time she
was running for the presidency in 2017.

When Bauge was summoned to the Elysee Palace by then-president Francois
Hollande for style advice in 2014, his instruction was “neither too chic nor
too redneck”.

Once popular with presidents, Rolex watches have been dumped.

All remember the spectacular gaffe by a close advisor to then-president
Nicolas Sarkozy in 2009, who said, in the midst of an economic crisis: “If you
don’t have a Rolex by the time you’re 50, then you’ve clearly failed in life.”

Extreme style

While the centrists seek neutrality, the political extremes are always
making clear statements, said Beauge.

Far-right leader Marine Le Pen, whose National Rally (RN) has been surging
in polls, ordered her deputies to wear sharp suits and ties after the last
legislative elections in 2022.

It was part of a strategy to make the party seem a natural part of French
institutions rather than a radical fringe.

“The idea is that RN deputies must be better dressed than the average
French person,” Beauge said.

Meanwhile, far-left leader Jean-Luc Melenchon rarely strays from his
short-collared worker’s jacket — a classic Communist symbol — even if his
voters are primarily wealthy, fashion-conscious urbanites rather than real
working-class people.

Many left-wing deputies seek to signal they are not part of the political
elite with jeans, jackets and few ties, said Beauge.

This led one right-wing leader, Renaud Muselier, to accuse them of being
“dirty and dishevelled”.

When left-wing bosses tried to impose ties, it triggered an ironic protest
in which women deputies showed up wearing them over dresses and jeans.(AFP)