Paul Smith revisits Swinging 60s with Soho-inspired collection at Pitti Uomo

British design icon Sir Paul Smith returned to Pitti Uomo in Florence this week, transporting the fashon crowd to the bohemian haunts of 1960s Soho with his Spring/Summer 2025 collection.

The presentation, staged at the opulent Villa Favard, recreated the ambiance of the all-night Italian cafes that served as artistic salons for London’s creative set after the clubs had closed. Complete with branded coffee cups and matchboxes, the “Bar Paul” set evoked the era’s louche cafe culture.

The collection itself channeled the 60s vibe, with unstructured tailoring, loose silk ties, and denim chore jackets meant to evoke painters heading from studio to dinners with gallerists. Suits featured classic Prince of Wales checks reminiscent of the decade, while statement outerwear like an oversized pastel-check trench updated Paul Smith’s signature stripes.

Sir Paul gave a personal walkthrough, tracing how Soho haunts of artists Francis Bacon and Lucien Freud informed the painted, tactile aesthetic. He also announced a new capsule with US denim pioneer Lee, coming full circle from his early days importing the brand’s painter pants for his Nottingham boutique in the 1970s.

The presentation underscored how Sir Paul, now 77, continues to mine British cultural history for inspiration, repackaging nostalgic references into precisely-executed contemporary designs with an irreverent twist.

While nodding to Swinging London’s artistic demimonde, the collection also captured the unique synthesis of irony and elevated craftsmanship that has defined the Paul Smith brand for over half a century. From the bohemian 60s to today’s global luxury market, few designers master that high-low duality quite like Sir Paul.

Perhaps it was the brass bunny good luck charm given to the designer by his wife Pauline, that enhanced the event’s success. Every season before Sir Paul presents his collections, he is gifted a good luck charm in the form of a rabbit.