Milan Fashion Week Men’s SS25: British designers swap out London, Moschino returns

It feels like just yesterday that we said farewell to the autumn/winter 2024 fashion season, yet the spring/summer 2025 period is almost already upon us, kicking off next month with the start of Milan Fashion Week Men’s.

The event will span June 14 to 18, over which time there will be 20 physical and four digital fashion shows, 44 presentations, eight presentations by appointment and eight other events.

David Koma to debut men’s, Martine Rose and Dunhill to test Milan’s waters

A notable returnee is that of Moschino, which will present its first men’s collection and women’s pre-collection under the creative direction of its new designer, Adrian Appiolaza. Others coming back to Italy’s fashion capital include Magliano, JW Anderson, Gucci and Zegna, which is to close the physical show calendar.

Elsewhere, a series of debuts are set to take place, largely by British designers who are seemingly swapping London Fashion Week in pursuit of a brighter spotlight. Martine Rose and Dunhill are among those, both of which have previously stuck to London for past collections. Similarly, David Koma will also be entering the Milanese arena, briefly stepping away from the brand’s London home to debut its first men’s collection.

Additional debuts include Camera Moda Fashion Trust Grant finalist Ascend Beyond, womenswear label Des_Phemmes, Damir Doma’s brand Diomene and Scandinavian label Henrik Vibskov, which will be showing as part of a collaboration with Copenhagen International Fashion Fair (CIFF).

CNMI strikes deals with Copenhagen and Seoul

Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana’s (CNMI) CIFF link up will further be expanded into the CIFF Showrooms Milan concept, where brands such as Mark Kenly Domino Tan, Envelope 1976, Aiayu, Adnym, Isnurh and Les Deux will be exhibited.

A similar agreement has also been made with the Seoul Metropolitan Government, which has established a ‘Protocol Agreement’ with the CNMI that hopes to promote emerging Korean brands, a selection of which will debut in Milan’s September fashion week.

In a release, Carlo Capasa, president of CNMI, said: “The richness and variety of the appointments on the calendar, new participation by certain international brands, including the collaboration with CIFF, all confirm the vitality and appeal of the Milano Fashion Week.”