Sourcing trends AW24/25: Nostalgic heirlooms, 3D fabrics and unpolished design

While the ordering season for SS24 is just coming to an end, the next
season is already in the starting blocks. In a webinar hosted by trend
research institute Fashion Snoops and Informa Markets Fashion, trend expert
Nia Silva gave first insights into the cultural signals, consumer
sentiments and the four emerging design aesthetics that will shape sourcing
trends for AW24/25.

Sentimental – a nostalgic journey into the past

The first design aesthetic presented by Silva for AW24/25 is called
Sentimental. This theme focuses on the namesake sentimentality and the art
of craftsmanship. Sentimental offers a nostalgic yet modern take on
breathing new life into traditional design and fabrics as modern
heirlooms.

Silva grounds nostalgic sentimentality in what the sourcing expert calls
two fundamental cultural signals. “The first is Craft Care, which
highlights the craft and wellness movement as a new way of looking at
design.” This interweaves the fields of craft and wellness and introduces a
novel approach to design that finds solace in the mindfulness of craft and
the therapeutic act of restoration.

The second signal, Mythical Meaning, recalls the wisdom of past eras and
anchoring oneself in ancient practices to face the uncertainties of the
present. “More than ever, brands are revisiting the origins of their
products, from raw materials sourced through ancient, regenerative
agricultural practices, to incorporating time-honoured artisanal techniques
and fabrics that can add charm to the range,”, said Silva. “The goal is to
take some of the richness, skills and thinking of the past to pave a way
into the future of design.”

Translated into materials, Sentimental expresses itself primarily in
artisan fabrics and vintage pieces. A major focus is on what the material
expert called “upcycled fabrics, recycled metals and old embellishments
woven into the fabrics like little vignettes from the past or a meaningful
story.”

Weaving techniques showcase tactile artistry through interwoven threads
of varying textures and the use of ethically harvested silk, regenerative
cotton fibres and unadulterated, chemical-free wool also brings
sustainability into focus.

Sentimental explores surfaces that feature a rich variety of textures,
blending eras and cultures to create innovative, time-honoured techniques.
The surfaces are highlighted by the deliberate inclusion of wear and
fraying, creating a tangible connection to history, used for both denim and
wool fabrics. The focus on craftsmanship in design also extends to repair
techniques such as patching, sewing and darning in knitwear, breathing new
life into archival materials.

The colouring of design aesthetics “almost feels like a window to the
soul or a casket of treasured heirlooms,” she stated. Specifically, this
means using familiar and stealthy warm colours, from bold forest tones to
buttery creams to dark, saturated reds.

Immersive – nature meets technology

While Sentimental dealt with the past, the second design aesthetic,
Immersive, is a fusion of natural spectacles and cutting-edge technology.
Nature is at the centre, but it is depicted through a high-resolution lens
with vibrant digital colours and 3D textures.

Web3, one of the cultural cues this aesthetic conjures up, is on
everyone’s lips at the moment, so it’s hardly surprising that sourcing
trends are also inspired by it. Then there is Made to Morph, a change-based
signal that Silva describes as a response to economic and environmental
instability. This is aimed in particular at all those who are looking for
products that adapt to every situation, resulting in highly sensitive,
functional materials.

Immersive materials are characterised by an extremely diverse range of
yarn textures and pigments that resemble natural and virtual ecosystems.
Dyeing is the focus, with processes offering sustainable yet commercially
viable results, she says. Bio-based alternatives, faux fur and vibrant
prints convey the fascination of the natural world.

Surfaces provoke a hyper-stimulating experience by mimicking microscopic
intricacies and featuring tactile design. Shiny materials, such as sequins,
iridescent ribbons and reflective prints dominate the overall look, and
heat-sensitive, changeable surfaces also take centre stage.

Nature is represented in garish hues, evoking microscopic imitations of
the natural environment. Warm as well as vibrant greens, pinks and blues
evoke a celestial yet austere view of reality and create a transition of
the seasons.

Chaos – uncertainty and unpolished design

Chaos is the latest and most emotionally charged of the four design
aesthetics for AW24/25. Chaos celebrates the possibilities that arise from
uncertainty and invites you to engage in unpolished design that pushes
conventional boundaries. Drawing inspiration from the current climate of
political unrest, cultural polarisation, climate change and economic
uncertainty, this aesthetic urges us to find the beauty in imperfection.

“We look for textures that break, ashen patterns, fragmented
constructions, the imperfect, brutalist forms and industrial craftsmanship
to inspire design for the future,” Silva explained.

One of the most important cultural signals is the growing distrust of
younger consumers towards hierarchies and institutions, the
anti-establishment movement. Consumers are demanding more transparency and
honesty in the supply chain, fair labour practices and the use of resources
to redress environmental and social imbalances. In addition, there is a
signal that Silva calls Brutal Ambiguity. The signal raises the question of
how to use uncertainty as an opportunity for innovation, and challenges
companies to adapt to constant change and foster innovation and
resilience.

The materials of the Chaos aesthetic are characterised by an
industrial-like precision and correspond to the post-pandemic mentality of
being ready for anything. Innovations like needle punching and 3D printing
make for lighter and more resilient results. Circular knitwear, for
example, is made from regenerated waste fibres and is both sustainable and
durable, and developing highly functional yarns, such as aramid fibres, are
designed to protect against extreme conditions.

Surfaces are made from recycled materials and feature laser-cut textures
that add a rough touch to tactility. Worn denims and engineered flocking
enhance grip and flexibility, while thermoplastic moulding modifies the
structures to provide protection from unpredictable elements, at least
visually.

“When we embrace the chaos aesthetic, we find liberation in
imperfection, a bold departure from traditional design and a celebration of
innovation and resilience in the face of uncertainty,” Silva summed up the
trend.

The colour palette reflects the drama and energy of the environment,
with intense, fiery reds and oranges alongside dark, earthy hues. At the
heart of the palette are softer neutrals, complemented by bright hues that
convey a “sense of natural optimism”.

Fragility – strong vulnerability

The latest design aesthetic, Fragility, is a departure from previous
trends but equally relevant, said Silva. With delicate and soft design that
should in no way be mistaken for weakness, Fragility celebrates
imperfection and emphasises a sense of vulnerability alongside resilience.
Wellness takes centre stage, nurturing and comforting with a choice of
fabrics and finishes.

Cultural signals include the Divine Feminine movement, which emphasises
nurturing and intuitive qualities and urges companies to prioritise social
and environmental responsibility. “The recognition of supposedly feminine
characteristics such as intuition, nurturing and emotional intelligence are
crucial here,” commented the expert on the cautious trend. “Inspired by the
concern that we all have, femininity movements are pushing companies to act
through social and environmentally friendly procurement and production
methods to become better stewards of the world.”

The Comfort of Solitude signal reflects a growing appreciation for
peace, relaxation and introspection, which are also present in practices
such as meditation or digital minimalism and the avoidance of constantly
being online. Consumers are increasingly choosing wellness-oriented product
categories such as loungewear, activewear and underwear.

Fragile surfaces define craftsmanship with highly detailed techniques
and slow processes. Finely considered metal stitches and coatings decorate
surfaces with simple elegance and shine. Surface treatments without water
and dyes are becoming increasingly important and promote environmentally
friendly manufacturing processes. In shoes and accessories, studs and ties
are formed into lush clusters, while quilting with lighter and less
pronounced stitches and appliqués creates calm.

The colour palette for *Fragility* exudes a delicate expression of
strength and subtlety, with light, bright neutrals and rich natural tones.
Shady midtones ground the entire spectrum and fulfil consumers’ desire for
materials that “nourish the mind, body and soul.”

This article was originally published on FashionUnited.DE.
Translation and edit: Rachel Douglass.