Sarah Burton makes Givenchy debut in Paris

British designer Sarah Burton stuck to black
and white debuting as chief designer at Givenchy on Friday during Paris
Fashion Week, going back to the fashion label’s 1950s origins for inspiration.

Burton, who was appointed in September last year, sent out models in the
historic offices of the brand in the wealthy eighth district of the French
capital.

“To go forward, you have to go back to the beginning,” she was quoted as
saying in notes accompanying the show.

The Fall/Winter 2025 collection featured overcoats and jackets with
sculptural silhouettes that mixed 1950s elegance with modern oversized style.
The mostly grey, black and white series included tweed coats and tutu-style
skirts, as well as flashes of vibrant yellow which style watchers say is an
emerging trend.

Burton, a down-to-earth 51-year-old from northern England, made her name as
creative director at Alexander McQueen in London after taking over following
the death of its founder in 2010.

“Givenchy has a very beautiful history,” she told Vogue in a profile last
month of her decision to cross the Channel and take a job at the LVMH-owned
label. “It appeals to me because it’s a small house, and it’s in Paris.”
She is one of a number of recent changes at major brands.

Other labels that are either bedding in new designers or looking for fresh
talent include Chanel, Tom Ford, Dries Van Noten, Dior menswear, Bottega
Veneta, Celine, Martin Margiela and Gucci.

Dior womenswear creative director Maria Grazia Chiuri is also widely
rumoured to be on her way out.

The luxury clothing market is struggling with slackening demand, most
significantly in China, but also in developed markets where inflation and
economic uncertainty have taken a toll. (AFP)