Children’s fashion: discovering the job of purchasing manager (for example at Galeries Lafayette)

According to market research and consulting firm Mordor Intelligence, the global children’s wear market is expected to reach 353.20 million US dollars by 2029, growing at a rate of 5.35 percent annually. A rather encouraging outlook, even if in France, children’s fashion has experienced a slowdown in recent years.

Between optimistic forecasts, evolving trends, the rise of secondhand clothing and sustainable fashion, in particular, how is the children’s fashion market evolving? And what will be the major directions for the years to come? To learn more, FashionUnited spoke with Marion Bringuier, head of the children’s and toys segment at Galeries Lafayette.

What is your perspective on the current children’s fashion market?

Since Covid, the children’s market, meaning fashion, but also toys, has been struggling somewhat in France and more broadly in Europe. It is a declining market. Price increases have not fully compensated for the drop in volume. Promotions still play a significant role in this market.

At Galeries Lafayette, I believe we are doing well. We are managing to gain market share, and that is an exception. We are quite satisfied with our results. The children’s market is not our largest segment, but it remains important. It represents between 4 and 5 percent of overall turnover.

How do you explain this exception?

Our overall strategy, which also applies to men’s and women’s wear, is bearing fruit. We also have a loyal customer base. For the children’s market, we have developed several strategies. In the fashion segment, in particular, we have strengthened our newborn gift offerings. In the secondhand segment, we have tested several models before opening a Restore Kids at Haussmann this summer.

Galeries Lafayette’s clientele belongs to an upper economic strata. Is this also an advantage?

We do have a premium offering, indeed, and a clientele primarily from the CSP+ demographic, but the children’s market operates largely on promotions. I think the momentum is due to our clientele, which is loyal. This is part of our strength. We also have a loyalty program that works well.

What are the trends in the children’s wear market?

Trends have evolved in recent years. Historically, premium brands have performed best. Of course, highly iconic and reassuring brands remain strong. Brands with recognisable logos, bold patterns and colourful items are more popular. The Quiet Luxury trend, for example, has not influenced children’s fashion. Similarly, subdued tones are not appealing.

Trends are also less uniform. Brands are developing their own identities, and customers are more receptive to micro-trends.

It is also a market that performs well thanks to gifting, for example, for newborns.

How do you determine trends?

There are several ways to determine trends: specialised trade shows, the press, which remains important in the children’s market and particularly in fashion, and trend specialists like WGSN can guide us.

We also have the advantage of being a distributor, which allows us to collaborate with a large number of specialised brands. We observe the trends that work, their evolution and it is quite easy to get a comprehensive overview of the market.

We also have our own brands, which allows us to consult our internal teams about upcoming trends. Finally, social media helps us track micro-trends.

What are the different stages of the process, from trend identification to purchase?

The buyer’s job is very interesting and comprehensive. It all starts with creating a strategy. At Galeries Lafayette, we develop a commercial strategy, with priorities to develop over the seasons and the year. These plans are then adapted for our different stores. There are discussions with the stores and points of sale to understand their specific needs and then reach an agreement.

After this stage, we establish purchasing budgets that allow buyers to allocate their spending. Generally, they have a list of brands they usually work with. Together, they review the previous season’s collections to see what worked and what did not. During buying appointments, they discover the collections, discuss with suppliers and decide on purchases and the necessary quantities. Then, the items arrive in stores.

Once these steps are completed, the buyer develops a collection book, in coordination with merchandising. This allows each store to be stocked according to the recommendations.

The buyer works according to a retail calendar, with several key periods: brand presentations, collaborations and marketing campaigns. There are different priorities to highlight throughout the year. Sales and promotional periods are part of this, not to mention back-to-school and end-of-season.

“The job of children’s fashion purchasing manager is exciting and requires many qualities.”

What path led you to the role of children’s and toy market manager?

I have been working at Galeries Lafayette for five years. I began my career as a strategy consultant at a firm before joining the group. I joined Galeries Lafayette as a project manager within the strategy department. Following that, I held various positions within the company before joining the merchandising and buying department. Initially, I worked on cross-functional projects, and then I oversaw the repositioning of our private labels, including the children’s brand. Through this experience, I assumed the role of children’s and toy market manager at the end of 2023.

Would you say it is a dynamic role?

It is a position that requires rigour. You need to be able to draft contracts, constantly monitor performance and the evolution of collections – it is one of the keys to their success. Fieldwork also plays a major role. You have to understand customer needs and how the store operates. You need to be attuned to the product, trends, materials, etc. This is made possible through meetings in the field, at trade shows and at various points of sale. Strong interpersonal skills are essential.

Is teamwork important to you?

Of course. Before a product arrives in-store, there is a process that involves several steps and different roles. You need to be able to liaise with the teams on the ground. There are a large number of stakeholders involved in the process. At Galeries Lafayette, each buyer is responsible for a segment – babywear, kids, pre-teen, footwear, etc. – but they all work collaboratively. As the manager of this market, my role is to drive the commercial strategy and guide them on the key trends to follow. In the children’s market, trends and fashion are less cyclical than in men’s and women’s fashion.

How do you view your profession?

It is an exciting profession that requires numerous qualities. The work is balanced between analysis, strategy and fieldwork. The children’s market is interesting because there are different segments to cover: fashion, footwear, accessories, toys and even culture. It is also a technical and sometimes complex market. We often say that “anyone who has worked in the children’s fashion market can do anything afterward.” It requires unique expertise.

It is also true that it is a market going through difficult times. Many major players are currently struggling. The business model and profitability are being challenged. It is interesting to see how the market is evolving. Children’s fashion is also very sensitive to issues of sustainability, ecology and circularity. The choice of materials for children’s products is crucial. Resale is also developing rapidly, and we are working on that at Galeries Lafayette. To summarize, it is an interesting and stimulating profession.