Environmental advocates slam major brands for “greenwashing” biomass transition

A group of 16 environmental organisations based in Indonesia has criticised major fashion brands for their shift to biomass sources like wood pellets and rice husks, calling it “greenwashing.”

In an open letter to the industry, groups including the Rainforest Action Network and Friends of the Earth Indonesia argue that these brands’ decarbonisation efforts ignore the negative impact of biomass on Southeast Asian communities and forests, said the Business of Fashion. The Indonesian government’s plans to expand biomass use for renewable energy have already endangered millions of hectares of natural forests.

Companies like H&M Group, Adidas, Inditex, and Puma have explored biomass as a low-carbon alternative to coal for powering boilers during fabric dyeing and finishing processes. Signatories to the UN Fashion Charter have committed to cease partnering with new suppliers employing coal-fired boilers this year and fully eliminating them from their supply chains by 2030.

Biomass remains a contentious alternative due to its links to deforestation, its impact on local communities, and the additional pollution generated by burning feedstocks like wood pellets. Environmental groups argue that fashion brands genuinely dedicated to sustainable energy should prioritize phasing out coal and abstaining from biomass burning.