MFW SS24: Luxury fabrics and trims

Milan Fashion Week for ss24 ran from
September 19 to September 25, 2023. Among the runway shows from
storied houses were a few debut performances. The most talked-about
being that of Sabato De Sarno at Gucci , where the
designer delivered a mostly commercial collection of wearable clothing
using a series of luxurious fabrics and trims. It was a theme that ran
through the majority of the Milan shows, including leather, shine,
sheers and fringe.

1) Like butter

Designers mostly favored smooth leathers for a variety of silhouettes
including dresses, coats, skirts and pants.

Aigner: designer, Christian Beck

Look 27: a tan leather dress with a boatneck and ¾ sleeves; an
asymmetrically designed skirt with pleats.

Bottega Veneta: designer, Matthieu Blazy

Look 20: a long-sleeved red and tan leather layered dress with a cowl
neck and fringes.

Etro: designer, Marco De Vincenzo

Look 9: a form-fitting floor-length black leather skirt with inserts
and a center seam, shown with a black devore long sleeved top.

Bally: designer, Simone Bellotti

Look 28: a short red leather coat over a blue top and red and black
plaid mini skirt with center ruffle. Accessories included a blue
baseball cap, long black boots and a red handbag.

Ferragamo: designer, Maximilian Davis

Look 8: a dark green leather suit with a form-fitting two-button
jacket and narrow ankle-length pants. Gold hoop earrings, a patent
handbag and brown ankle strap sandals completed the look.

2) Inside Out

The use of sheer fabrics to highlight feminine curves has been a
prominent theme running through the collections for ss24, not just in
Milan but also the other major fashion cities.

Antonio Marras

Look 8: a draped beige sheer chiffon one-shouldered gown trimmed with
black and with a rose design, over a white corset and black underwear.

Dolce & Gabbana

Look 8: a sheer black long-sleeved, full-skirted dress with seams,
ove4r thigh-high boots, a black clutch and a black hat with a chiffon
scarf.

Alberta Ferretti

Look 29: a white cotton lace long dress with a halter neck and long
sleeves and white strappy sandals.

Ermanno Scervino: designers, Ermanno Daelli and Toni Scervino

Look 2: a sheer white floor-length dress with a pin-tucked bodice and
a flounce over a sparkling silver bra top and boy-style briefs. A
straw bag and white sandals completed the look.

Sportmax

Look 24: a sheer lilac fitted shirt and matching midi skirt with a
center seam. Accessories included a silver handheld bag and white
sandal- boots.

3) Surface interest

Rendered in gold and silver, many looks glistened and gleamed on the
runways of Milanese designers this season.

Genny: designer, Gabriele Colangelo

Look 25: a rose gold colored knit vest with a deep vee front and a
matching mid-length skirt. A leather tote bag, belt and sandals in the
same color and a gold cuff completed the look.

Elisabetta Franchi

Look 5: a long and narrow silver sequined slip dress with black motorbike boots.

Diesel: designer, Glenn Martens

Look 55: a high-rise leotard and leggings with underwear outlines in a
shiny stretch rub off fabric. Accessories included a pink quilted bag
and shiny sneakers.

Luisa Beccaria

Look 15: a floor-length silver sequined dress with straps and a
self-belt worn with sandals.

Blumarine: designer, Nicola Brognano

Look 1: a strapless bustier with a butterfly and a matching
below-the-knee skirt in shiny gold leather, accessorized with two
belts, also embellished with butterflies along with earrings and
sandals.

4) Fringe festival

Fringe has been by far the most popular trim this season in all the
major fashion cities and Milan designers used it liberally as well.

Bottega Veneta: designer, Matthieu Blazy

Look 43: a dress with cut-out shoulders and a woven bodice with two
layers of blue and white fringe. Accessories included a white handheld
bag and black sandals.

Gucci: designer, Sabato De Sarno

Look 21: an acid green gabardine coat with long sparkling fringe over
a grey rib knit shirt and burgundy shorts. Larger gold earrings and
burgundy patent point toe pumps accessorized the look.

Philipp Plein

Look 41: a short yellow dress with a deep vee neck embellished with
very long fringe. Accessories included a large link chain necklace, a
novelty bag and gold platform sandals with an ankle strap.

Tom Ford: designer, Peter Hawkings

Look 8: a strapless mini dress in black with a leather trim and gold
clasp embellished with three layers of fringe; accessorized by black
cuffs, sunglasses and sandals.

Prada: designers, Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons

Look 13: a black shirt with green and white floral printed fringe;
grey shorts under a silver metal knee length overlay and two belts.
Other accessories included a handheld bag, black socks and lace-up
shoes.