How Kuyichi starts an Organic Cotton Revolution with Cotton in Conversion

Cotton is one of the most polluting clothing materials in the world. With this becoming
more widely known, demand for organic cotton is rising fast. But there is a problem:
there is hardly any supply. In fact, it is almost impossible for cotton farmers to make
the switch to organic themselves. Kuyichi is changing that. The sustainable denim
brand – founded in 2001 to create a market for organic cotton – is starting a new
revolution that helps cotton farmers in their organic transition. This is Cotton in
Conversion.

Cotton is one of the world’s most used fabrics and is one of the most polluting
agricultural products. It requires huge amounts of energy and water, up to 10,000
liters per kilogram of end-product, and is full of pesticides, insecticides, and other
toxic substances. Organic cotton is much better in every aspect: for the soil, water,
wildlife, the people who work with it, and our own health. If we want a future-proof
fashion industry, the large transition to organic cotton is essential.

From conventional to organic cotton: Major challenges

There is enough demand, so that is not the problem. Yet only 1.4% of the world’s
cotton is certified organic, with a recent growth of only 0.5%. Why are conventional
cotton farmers not simply switching to organic? It turns out that it takes a lot of time,
energy, and money. It takes at least three years for a cotton farm to become certified
organic. This period is crucial to restoring the devastated ecosystem and keeping the
soil healthy again. Then there are the strict rules of organic farming, high certification
costs, and their dependence on the harvest for their livelihood. Understandably, many
farmers hesitate: they have to completely change their way of working and make
huge investments. And that without a financial buffer and with intense competition.

Cotton farmers urgently need our help

In addition, no one wants to buy the cotton produced in the transition period. From
day one, the farmers have been forced to work under strict rules of organic farming.
Their farm is inspected every year. Yet their cotton is not allowed to carry the label ‘organic’ it is called ‘transitional cotton’. Despite the high costs for the farmer, it has
the same low market value as conventional cotton. Brands provide little support.
Because clothing supply chains are long and complex, they rarely have contact with
the first links. In fact, brands often don’t even know where their raw materials come
from. As a result, the demand does not reach the farmer, even though this is the
incentive for change.

Kuyichi has been fighting for more fair and organic cotton since 2001

Kuyichi is bringing change. Since its inception in 2001, the Dutch denim brand has
been fighting for an organic approach in the fashion industry. The founders of
Kuyichi, NGO Solidaridad, researched the cotton industry in Peru and were shocked
by the pollution and poverty they saw. This needed to change. Solidaridad began
collaborating with local cotton farmers and rewarded everyone in the chain for
producing fair cotton, free of toxic substances and chemicals. But no clothing brand
showed interest. Solidaridad decided to start their own brand to create demand in the

market: Kuyichi was born. The sustainable pioneer created the world’s first 100%
organic jeans in 2004. And with success: the market began to grow. But it was taking
far too long.

Kuyichi and Bossa launch a revolutionary organic program for cotton farmers

That is why it is time for a new revolution: a market for transition cotton. Together with
production partner Bossa, Kuyichi is starting the Cotton in Conversion project, an
ambitious program that fully supports cotton farmers transitioning to organic cotton.
Kuyichi and Bossa have been working together since 2008. The Turkish denim
producer is known for its sustainable future vision, strong focus on circularity, and
good working conditions. Both parties have been working with local cotton farmers in
Turkey for a long time. This is now being expanded by offering them financial security
and guaranteed purchase of transition cotton. This reduces the risk for the farmer.

Cotton farmer Cengiz is already receiving help

Together, they are helping Turkish cotton farmer Cengiz Karadeli during his transition
and beyond. Last September, Kuyichi and Bossa visited his farm in the Turkish
region of Aydin. 2022 is the first year of the transition period on his cotton field. It is
an exciting time for Cengiz, who – understandably – is very nervous about possible
pests and the yield of his crops. The working conditions of Cengiz’s employees were
also checked. He is now in the second year of the transition and feels positive. In
October 2022, his field was completely hand-harvested, as it is not accessible to
large machines. After ginning (separating the fibre from the seeds), the first batch of
transitional cotton was sent to Bossa to create high-quality denim fabrics. Kuyichi
hopes that the support for Cengiz will inspire other farmers in the region to do the
same.

Kuyichi’s first Cotton in Conversion collection

With Cengiz’s first transition harvest, Kuyichi will soon launch its very first Cotton in
Conversion collection. It will be produced by sustainable jeans manufacturer SARP
jeans, which the brand has been working closely with since 2018.
Kuyichi will provide updates throughout this journey and believes it is essential to
include everyone in this journey transparently. Kuyichi also calls on consumers and
other brands to take responsibility. Choose organic cotton, preferably with proper
certification, such as GOTS or OCS, and buy cotton in conversion. Help these
farmers on their way and reward them for their courage to change. We can turn the
tide in the fashion industry. But only if we do it together.