Marc Jacobs closes international fashion month with a show about joy

Marc Jacobs’ Autumn/Winter 2024 show, held in New York’s Public Library on Monday, lasted a mere six minutes, yet left an indelible impression on its audience that will resonate for some time to come. Embracing a theme of joy, Jacobs explained in the show notes: “We use fashion to embrace bold and courageous self-expression to articulate and showcase our inner selves, allowing us to freely explore and display our thoughts, desires, and identities in a deeper pursuit of joy, beauty and personal transformation. While the future remains unwritten, I am steadfast in my daily practice of choosing love over hate, faith over fear and finding pause in reflection.”

On the runway, the feeling of joy emerged in the playful way Jacobs tweaked proportions, like a yellow polka dot bikini which had all the fluidity of stiff cardboard, complete with a conical bra. Sandals had their soles elongated, much like a child trying on its mother’s (or father’s) heels. There was a dress reminiscent of Minnie Mouse, punctuating the Disney-fication of silhouette, look and even makeup, which featured cartoon-like eyes with oversized lashes, counterbalanced by fairytale princess hair.

Gowns and voluminous skirts appeared to be caught in a wind, with one white dress evoking the iconic Marilyn Monroe photograph. Gondola-shaped pumps were toe-curling, literally. Another ensemble could belong in the wardrobe of Snow White or Jessica Rabbit, resplendent in jewel tones and oversized gloves.

The silhouette may have its humorous sparks, but beneath the façade, Jacobs’ comments on joy couldn’t be more apt. The show was held on the day France voted in a new far-right government and at a time when the world seems to be inching towards a state of decreasing tolerance. For many, life is no fairy tale.