Without Alaia, Valentino and Fendi, there are gaps in the couture calendar

The Parisian haute couture calendar was brought forward this year to accommodate the forthcoming Olympic Games. However, amidst the flurry of high-fashion presentations, the absence of Alaïa, Fendi and Valentino has been duly noted. Also notable is that Chanel showed haute couture without its former artistic director, Virginie Viard, who made an abrupt exit earlier this month. Unlike Dries Van Noten, who gracefully announced his retirement, giving one last farewell presentation on Saturday preceding haute couture, Ms Viard was conspicuously absent from the Chanel runway show on Tuesday.

Richemont-owned Alaïa, known for its off-schedule ready-to-wear showcases during haute couture week, has revealed plans to show its next collection in New York on 6 September.

Pieter Mulier, the Belgian designer who has helmed the maison since 2019, said “New York epitomises creativity and dynamism,” while also referencing the historical significance of the decision, noting that Azzedine Alaïa first presented in New York in 1982, describing this return as “closing the circle”.

This year marks the 60th anniversary of Alaïa’s foundation by the late Tunisian designer Azzedine Alaïa, with industry insiders speculating that the forthcoming New York events may serve as a platform to commemorate the milestone.

Fendi, on the other hand, chose to sit this season out, as it conducts an internal review of its show and event schedule. The Roman fashion house said it has no plans to cease with couture, WWD reported.

Valentino is also taking a hiatus as it adjusts to newly appointed creative director Alessandro Michele, who last week dropped the brand’s inaugural 2025 resort collection. Michele will unveil his first mainline collection during Milan Fashion Week in September, with the maison expected to return to the haute couture schedule in January 2025.

The gaps in the schedule were celebrated by some editors, who have less dashing to do between shows, and more time to see showrooms and parallel activations happening across Paris.

On the provisional calendar released earlier this year, Fendi was to show on Thursday, June 27th, where it was the anchor brand to a roster of lesser-known designers.