Engaged in the clothing industry for 20 years.
Paris fashion week FW23: four key trends
Each season, Paris is the final stop on the fashion tour and,
arguably, the most important. For the upcoming fall winter season
fw23, designers showing in the French capital signaled a renewed
respect for traditional tailoring. The four major trends all contained
elements of the haute couture, with its focus on enhancing the shape
of the body.
It’s all Greek
The French couturier, Madame Grès, is often attributed with creating
the first ‘Grecian’ draped jersey gowns. Draping fabric to enhance
female curves has endured to this day. A number of ultra glamorous
looks were on display in Paris this season.
Atlein #15
From Antonin Tron, an olive stretch jersey off-the shoulder top and a
lilac satin floor-length draped skirt was shown with white hose and
sandals.
Lanvin #41
Bruno Sialelli showed a teal gown with an asymmetric shoulder-line and
a metal detail. It was draped at the waist and accessorized with black
boots embellished with heart shaped studs.
Rokh #18
Designer Rok Hwang showed a nude-colored floor-length ruched jersey
dress. Knotting the fabric created an ultra-feminine silhouette. Gold
jewelry and a brown tote completed the look.
Shoulder on
Tailored separates dominated the runways of Paris. For the most part,
jackets had a masculine appeal with bold shoulder lines reminiscent of
‘eighties ‘power dressing.’
Balenciaga #11
From Demna, a double-breasted broad shouldered, grey plaid blazer and
knickerbockers were shown with black sock boots.
Saint Laurent #6
Anthony Vaccarello showed a broad-shouldered white jacket, over a knit
top with a deep scoop neck and a straight black leather skirt.
Accessories included silver hoops, black sunglasses, sheer black hose
and pointy toed ankle strap shoes.
Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood #20
The designer showed a broad-shouldered blouson jacket and matching
mini kilt in black, grey and red plaid. The look was accessorized with
yellow and red print leggings with a black overlay and classic
Westwood platforms.
Distress signals
Deconstructed and distressed knitwear can be traced back to the early
designs of Martin Margiela circa 1990s; and in recent seasons has made
a come-back. It was a common theme this time around in Paris.
Acne #29
Designer Jonny Johansson delivered a floor-length deconstructed moss
green knit slip dress studded with crocheted florals and hanging
threads. Matching sandals completed the look.
Off-White #24
Ibrahim Kamara showed a three piece set including a zip front
turtleneck, pants and a tunic in laddered sweater knits in shades of
orange, green and brown. The look was accessorized with yellow lizard
boots and a yellow bag.
Alexander McQueen #34
From Sarah Burton, a white cable sweater dress with a deconstructed
front made up of knit ropes. The shoulders were exaggerated and the
waist was incised. Accessories included large silver earrings and
black ankle strap sandals.
She’s a lady
Perhaps as a counterpoint to three years of casual work-from-home
wardrobing, designers offered up ladylike ready-to-wear items.
Inspiration seemed to partly come from the long-lasting appeal of
tweed and bouclé at Chanel.
Chloe #30
Gabriela Hearst showed a two-piece skirt suit in cream bouclé. The
jacket was collarless and fastened with one gold button at the neck
and the skirt was straight and mid-length. Both had a raw edge. A
brown pebble leather hand held satchel and black platform boots
completed the look.
Christian Dior #6
From Maria Grazia Chiuri, a two-piece suit in black and white
houndstooth check, reminiscent of the house’s designs of the ‘fifties.
The four-button jacket was cropped over a mid-length pencil skirt.
Accessories included black mid-calf ankle socks and spectator
Mary-Janes.
Giambattista Valli #5
The designer showed a black and white short tweed oversized coat and a
minidress with intricate gold embroidery. Black hose and pointed toe
slingbacks completed the look.