Item of the week: the rugby shirt

What it is:

A brief overview of the rugby shirt’s history would reveal little in the
way of surprises. It is often believed that the piece in fact originated at
the suitably named Rugby School in England in the 1830s, and grew in
popularity alongside its fellow sport. The piece itself has also not
changed drastically since its birth. The only dramatic shift would be that
of the material, which has since adapted from wool to a more breathable
cotton or synthetic fibre. It also still bears a resemblance to the polo
shirt, with a key detail being its button-down collar.

Why you’ll want it:

Like other sportswear, the rugby shirt has made its way into the more
general world of fashion, as brands adopt the classic piece as a
prep-centric staple for both men and women. Its current resurgence in
popularity can be attributed to the recent rise in the preppy clothing
trend, distinctly present in the collections of a slew of menswear
designers. Despite fitting comfortably into ongoing trends, the shirt is an
item that does often recur each year, largely down to its status as a
staple, and therefore rarely falls out of relevance with consumers.

Where we’ve seen it:

In the collections of many designers, the rugby shirt appeared in its
classic form – Dsquared2 and Beyond Closet, for example, exhibited the
traditional striped patterns, complete with collegiate-inspired patches.
Martine Rose opted for a similar design, albeit layering the shirt with a
denim overcoat and chains, departing from the preppy aesthetic it is so
regularly linked to. MSGM, on the other hand, offered up a sleeker version
of the style, with details like the collar donning contrasting tones to the
shirt’s body. In even more of a contrast, JW Anderson presented a vastly
different take on the classic piece, displaying a rugby shirt with puffed
up proportions yet still holding its recognisable details.

How to style it:

There is not much in the way of styling a rugby shirt. Being such a casual
item in the context of fashion, as opposed to sportswear, it is a one that
can be utilised in a simple manner. For both men and women, the look works
well with jeans and some form of casual shoe, such as a sneaker. However,
if the wearer wants to take the look one step further in the direction of
its collegiate links, it is also possible to be more daring in the
approach. This could be in the layering of other shirts, or the use of
shorts in contrasting colours. If prep is not for you, depart from the
theme with the use of cargo pants or tailored trousers.

The rugby shirt has remained virtually unchanged since its day of origin,
largely due to its wearable shape and effortless appearance. With the
presence of patches and its typical colour block prints, the piece also
fits well into the ongoing trend for preppy clothing, making it relevant in
the current day as a casual ‘must-have’.