More and more clothing linked to Uyghur forced labour: Here’s what you need to know

An increasing number of fashion companies are being investigated for
possible links to Uyghur forced labour. A new report by British university,
Sheffield Hallam University, and partnered Uyghur advocacy groups has
linked 39 fashion brands to forced labour from the Xinjiang region. Here,
it is understood that a Muslim minority, the Uyghurs, have been put to work
under pressure from the Chinese government.

First, the basics: Experts say there is evidence that in the Xinjiang region
, the Muslim minority Uyghurs are being put into labour camps.
Xinjiang is a region with many textile factories and one that produces a
lot of cotton. Exactly how many people perform under forced labour is
uncertain. Predictions range from half a million to several million. It is
not only Uyghurs who are put to work in these camps and prisons, Kyrgyz,
Kazakhs and North Koreans are also sent here.

Because of the relation between Uyghur forced labour with cotton and
textiles, the link with fashion companies also naturally emerges. For
several years, reports have come out about bigger fashion brands working with products and cotton
from the Xinjiang region. In recent years, for instance, companies
such as Bestseller, H&M, Nike, Hugo Boss, C&A, State of Art, Patagonia,
Shein, Ralph Lauren, Levi’s and Diesel have already faced accusations and
investigations. The chains then often say they have no evidence of
wrongdoing, but cooperate fully with the investigations. So it’s not just
about low-price chains, luxury brands also face the allegations.

When reports come out about a possible link, brands sometimes
specifically distance themselves from the region. In 2021, H&M and Nike
both indicated that they would not use cotton from the Chinese province due
to concerns about forced labour. In return for this decision, however, both
brands faced boycotts from China. Several Chinese influencers called for
boycotting the chains and videos even appeared online of products from the
brands being burned.

Investigation into Uyghur forced labour intensifies

Not only European bodies but also, for example, the Canadian market watchdog are investigating possible links
to forced labour. In America, there is already a ban on the import of cotton
and other products from Xinjiang. In practice, banning products made under
forced labour is often more difficult than hoped. This is partly due to the
complex production chains that fashion companies have. Working with several
suppliers and sub-suppliers, there are many different locations that need
to be monitored for working conditions. Despite the US ban on importing
products from Xinjiang, there is a ‘loophole’ here. According to research
by Bloomberg, Shein can still import products that have an origin in
Xinjiang because the brand sells the clothes at such low prices that
shipments to customers are almost always below a value threshold of 800
dollars. At this value threshold, a reporting requirement to US Customs and
Border Protection is triggered.

Investigators of the new UK report say it is difficult to conduct
independent inspections of suppliers in Xinjiang because the Chinese
government has such a tight grip on the region. In the process, suppliers
would often change names and change company structures. The European
Commission wants a new law to ensure that companies are obliged to
investigate their production chain and cancel out abuses. The law
specifically addresses human rights and environmental impact.

In addition, the European Commission has made a proposal to ban products
made under forced labour from the EU market. This proposal covers all
products, whether manufactured in the EU or imported. Where forced labour
is found to be involved after an investigation, products will be withdrawn
from the market and an import ban will apply. Researchers from Sheffield
Hallam University indicate that regulation is very important and that the
EU should introduce it.