Why luxury brands delay designer appointments

Is silence golden? Executives at luxury fashion houses certainly seem to think so. While the top-tier maisons thrive on narrative control, the recent delays in designer appointment announcements reveal an industry grappling with uncertainty and brand identity recalibration. But for the industry at large—and consumers—the prolonged silence has only fueled speculation, turning rumour into near-certainty.

Take Dior. Speculation is mounting over Maria Grazia Chiuri’s potential exit after her May show, coinciding with Jonathan Anderson’s confirmed departure from Loewe. The question is no longer whether Dior’s leadership will change but rather when it will be confirmed. The industry first picked up on this shift months ago, and again in January when Kim Jones resigned from his role at Dior, clearing a path for Anderson’s anticipated ascent. Yet, no official word has emerged from LVMH, leaving observers to read between the lines.

Multiple factors are at play. The post-pandemic luxury landscape has reshaped the financial and strategic priorities of conglomerates, forcing them to take a more measured approach to succession planning. High-end brands with marquee-name artistic directors are wary of the revolving-door effect—a stark contrast to the era of rapid-fire creative turnovers. Gucci’s struggle to regain footing under Sabato De Sarno exemplifies the risks of misaligned appointments. Meanwhile, Demna’s new appointment at Gucci may have rattled industry insiders, but it also underscored Kering’s limited options in securing a suitable replacement.

Avoiding the revolving door effect

Dior, a house that masterfully balances commercial dominance with couture prestige, cannot afford a misstep. A creative overhaul must align with internal strategy, investor confidence, and consumer sentiment. But as luxury brands double down on secrecy, they risk underestimating the value of transparency. In an age of relentless digital scrutiny, information vacuums invite speculation, which—if not properly managed—can chip away at a brand’s aura of control.

The prolonged silence around these appointments reflects the intensity of contractual negotiations and brand recalibrations behind the scenes. If Anderson does, in fact, take the reins at Dior across both men’s and women’s lines, it would mark a bold creative shift—one that demands a meticulously transition. Under Bernard Arnault’s leadership, LVMH has perfected the art of the quiet handover. Chanel and Bottega Veneta have also embraced this playbook, demonstrating the power of precisely timed revelations.

Luxury brands have become hyper-aware of how the media cycle affects their equity. The era of impulsive, splashy reveals is long gone. Today, strategic leaks and carefully controlled confirmations build anticipation, ensuring that brands maintain control over their own narratives. With Dior, the stakes are particularly high—its creative direction shapes not only its own trajectory but also the broader industry landscape.

For now, the silence continues. But in fashion, as in business, the absence of an announcement is often the loudest statement of all.