Who’s Next: What AW24/25 trends will be presented at the show?

Denim, chunky knits and uniforms are set to be strong pieces in the
autumn/winter wardrobe for the coming year. In a webinar broadcast on
LinkedIn on 12 December, Sylvie Pourrat, salon director at WSN, and Michaël
Bonzom, creative director of ready-to-wear at consultancy agency NellyRodi,
announced the AW24/25 trends and the brands that will embody them at the
next edition of Who’s Next, to be held from 20 to 22 January 2024 at Porte
de Versailles in Paris.

Utopia

Named “Utopia”, the first trend revolves around the uniform and its
hybridisation. With National Education Minister Gabriel Attal recently
announcing plans to trial the wearing of uniforms in French schools, this
piece is set to gradually take pride of place in consumers’ wardrobes.

The uniform is intended to be both utilitarian and elegant, well cut and
made from noble materials in specialist tailoring workshops. The star
colour of this trend is worker blue, combined with more pastel shades such
as soft pink. Bonzom suggested turning to materials such as denim to
complete the look, but also wool, cashmere and leather, “which we prefer to
be vegan”. Classic tailoring, multi-pocket shorts and micro-cargos are
paired with more feminine pieces such as satin blouses, lace tops and
close-fitting jackets.

Shoe brand Le Bohemien embodies this trend with its moccasins that are
in keeping with a “back to school” spirit, a theme honoured at the previous
edition of Who’s Next. The label will be present at the show, in the
footwear area in Hall 4. Kings of Indigo, a denim specialist, will be
exhibiting in Hall 5.2. For the first time, the brand will be showcasing a
unisex jean that is “equally suited to women and men”. New to the show is
South Korean ready-to-wear brand M.ROF, which offers ensembles that combine
streetwear style and will be set up in Hall 6.

Wonderland

The “Wonderland” trend is influenced by the outdoor spirit, which is
then characterised by a desire to reconnect with nature. It is embodied in
practical and versatile pieces, designed to last over time and be passed
down from one generation to the next. At the same time, Bonzom noted a
growing interest in childhood worlds and the tales and legends of the
North, which is reflected in retail experiences that rely more and more on
immersion and the wonder of the senses.

Oak green, lichen grey and even wood brown embody this trend. They blend
perfectly with more acidic colours such as yellow and red. Colourful knits
and thick raincoats are the key elements of the Wonderland trend.
Accessories also play an important role, like mittens, functional bags and
trainers covered in velcro and rope that protect against the cold and make
it easier to get around “in the city as well as in the mountains.”

In contrast to the monochrome silhouettes of the Utopia trend,
Wonderland is banking on colours and prints. Here, we find pieces with
Scandinavian or Native American motifs, or stylised with English embroidery
in a retro style inspired by the 18th century.

At Who’s Next, Wonderland style will be embodied by Aaluna’s colourful
bags, which draw on the skills of indigenous Colombian populations, and
Inuikii’s cosy ankle boots, which promise to keep feet warm all winter
long. Both brands will be present in Hall 4.

Spell

Spell or “new rebellion” illustrates a desire to dramatise everyday life
in difficult times. Consumers want to experiment and are multiplying bold,
assertive proposals. The trend is based on fantasies about witches, dark
tales, nursery rhymes, and Disney super-villains. Powerful colours such as
blood red, deep green and raven black are used. Brighter shades such as
pistachio green or cherry red soften these very strong silhouettes.

The strong garments of the “Spell” trend are the biker jacket, the
bomber and dark-coloured jeans in a style reminiscent of 1960s punk/rock
influences. They can be mixed with more feminine pieces such as lingerie
tops.

In terms of materials, black denim, leather, metal, as well as smocked
velvet and recycled polyester are all in the spotlight. Jewellery takes
centre stage, sometimes dominating the clothes. They are stacked,
juxtaposed and used in unusual ways. The pieces are intended to be
voluminous, in extravagant shapes that transform the appearance of the
body.

At Who’s Next, hair accessory brand Matilda Headpieces will embody the
trend with its headbands studded or entirely decorated with rhinestones,
shells and pearls. Meanwhile, label Death is Easy will be showcasing its
range of graphic print T-shirts, cargo shirts and revealing tops.

Eternity

The “Eternity” trend is a continuation of ‘skimwear’, which is very much
in vogue this season. It is synonymous with softness and escape,
positioning itself halfway between reality and fiction. This is reflected
in innovative proposals and the use of artificial intelligence in product
design.

“Eternity” is represented by luminous colours such as celestial pink,
silver grey or more nude shades for a “second skin” effect. These light
colours can be enhanced with fuchsia or lemon yellow.

The trend’s key pieces are moon boots, mackintoshes and down jackets.
Bonzom also highlighted a craze for imposing jewellery like necklaces and
earrings that interweave rhinestones, pearls and other glittering
details.

The trend will be adopted at the end of next year and will mark the
transition between the winter and spring seasons. As such, it will
incorporate lighter, more festive silhouettes such as sequin dresses and
sequin tops paired with down jackets and “beautiful warm knits.”

Soft, voluptuous and enveloping, the Douce Gloire scarf brand fits
perfectly with the “Eternity” style, explained Sylvie Pourrat. It will be
on display in Hall 4 of the show. Gertrude’s colourful down jackets and
thick jackets, meanwhile, will be on show in Hall 6.