Jonathan Anderson departs from creative directorship at Loewe

Following persistent rumours that have been gathering momentum in recent months, Northern Irish designer Jonathan Anderson has announced his departure from the creative directorship at Spanish fashion house Loewe. He had held the position for the past 11 and a half years, during which time he completely revitalised the aura, essence, and creative codes of the century-old house, which was founded in Madrid in 1846.

The British fashion designer himself announced that he was closing a chapter and leaving the creative directorship of Loewe, through a heartfelt letter shared on his social media. In the letter, he reflected on his time as creative director of Loewe since 2013, when he was tasked with revitalising and directing the creative and design department of the Madrid-based fashion house. He took over from Briton Stuart Vevers, who was the creative director of the label from July 2007 to June 2013, when his departure was announced as he headed towards the creative directorship of US brand Coach. Anderson concluded the farewell with a confirmation of the “end” of his “chapter” as creative director of Loewe.

“Eleven years ago, I was given the most incredible opportunity: to write a chapter in a story that is already 179 years old.” After receiving the commission from LVMH, the French multinational holding company specialising in the luxury sector that has owned the Spanish fashion house since 1996, and taking the lead in the label’s design department, “from my first day at Loewe, I found kindred spirits in the design studio and the atelier, whose talents were, and continue to be, second to none”. To them, he said, “thank you for sharing your art”. From there, and “over the past eleven years, I have been fortunate to be surrounded by people with the imagination, skills, tenacity and ingenuity to find a way to say ‘yes’ to all my ambitious ideas”. He added: “Looking back, I have realised that a brand is not built in the first show, or even in the first year of shows, but is built slowly, season after season, year after year, on what is right for the brand.”

Regarding his work doing “what is right” at the helm of Loewe, “one of the achievements I am most proud of is the launch of the ‘Craft Prize’”. This prize for craftsmanship created “a platform that truly supports and gives visibility to an endangered craft, young creators, old masters and new ideas”. He added: “I would like to thank the Foundation team, the Jury members and the panel of experts for their time and dedication.” They helped to shape awards whose creation was simply a response to the global creative vision that Anderson devised for Loewe. He stated that, “from day one, I aspired to create a cultural brand”; an idea that was ultimately based “largely on the trust and generosity of the numerous artists, artisans, private collection funds, foundations, museums and galleries who contributed their work” to shape that idea. He said: “I am sincerely grateful to them all.”

Concluding his letter, Anderson thanked “everyone who supported me and my vision, and all the people who made each show possible”, as well as “those who participated in campaigns, wrote articles, bought items or simply liked the posts”, because “you made it possible”. The British designer concluded: “They say all good things come to an end, but I disagree. While my own chapter comes to an end, the story of Loewe will continue for many years to come, and I will follow it with pride.”

Confirmation from Loewe

The extensive letter released by the former creative director of Loewe was followed by confirmation of his departure from the creative directorship of Loewe by both the management of the Madrid-based fashion house and the French international holding company LVMH. The fashion house and group celebrated the good work that Anderson had achieved for both parties over the past 11 years. However, like the Northern Irish designer himself, they did not reveal the new direction that Loewe and its design department would take after this end of an era. Rumours continue to circulate that Anderson will be appointed as the new creative director of Dior. However, none of the parties have confirmed or denied these speculations in their recent statements, which make no mention of either the next creative chapter of Loewe or the new future that now opens up for the Northern Irish designer.

“I am incredibly grateful to Jonathan Anderson for the eleven years of unparalleled creativity, passion and dedication he has brought to Loewe,” said Pascale Lepoivre, chief executive officer of Loewe since 2016, in a statement provided by the management of the Madrid-based fashion house. “With him as creative director, the House has reached new heights of international recognition”, thanks to creations as unique as “the ‘Puzzle’ bag, which celebrates its tenth anniversary”. The bag has become “a true icon” and a reference point for “the brand codes he has created, based on craftsmanship”, and which “will endure as his legacy”.

Sidney Toledano, the long-standing chief executive officer of LVMH’s fashion division and strategic advisor and personal advisor to Bernard Arnault, chairman and chief executive officer of LVMH, said: “I have had the pleasure of working with some of the great artistic directors of recent times and I consider Jonathan Anderson to be one of the best. What he has brought to Loewe goes beyond creativity. Over the past 11 years, Anderson has built a rich and eclectic universe with strong roots in craftsmanship, which will allow the House to thrive far beyond his departure.”