Harrods buying director says PFW AW25 was a “study in contrasts”

Paris Fashion Week (PFW) autumn/winter 2025 collections were a “study in contrasts,” according to Simon Longland, buying director – fashion at Harrods, following London Fashion Week offering “refined impact” and Milan Fashion Week leaning “towards caution rather than bold reinvention”.

“While some houses navigated creative transitions, others delivered collections that reaffirmed their mastery. Sarah Burton and Haider Ackerman presented exceptional debut collections for Givenchy and Tom Ford respectively, while Daniel Roseberry, Pieter Mulier, and the Olsen sisters presented with absolute confidence, each demonstrating a clear vision and beautiful collections,” said Longland.

The collections which stood out included Alaïa, Schiaparelli, Hermès, The Row, and Givenchy for “their precision, restraint, and craftsmanship”. While the most impactful shows were “smaller in format, allowing for a closer appreciation of the pieces and the skill behind them”.

Paris Fashion Week AW25 trends – tailoring, shaggy faux fur and brown hues

As with MFW, texture continues to define the autumn/winter 2025 season, with shaggy faux fur, shearling, leather and suede a focus, as well as statement outerwear and rich brown hues.

Longland added: “Shaggy faux fur and shearling were omnipresent, making statement outerwear the key investment, best layered over rich brown leather. Leather and suede extended into skirts, trousers, and shirting, reinforcing their role as foundational materials.”

Tailoring was also in the spotlight at PFW, with a focus on “sculptural silhouettes with quiet authority,” as seen on the catwalks of Balmain, Givenchy, and Victoria Beckham.

Colour also took “a strong direction,” with bitter chocolate brown emerging as the new black, complemented by tan and chestnut, while red, from scarlet to Bordeaux, made “the boldest statement”.

Longland also added that heritage fabrics “grounded collections in tradition while ensuring modern relevance,” as spotted at Chanel, Givenchy, Alexander McQueen and Vivienne Westwood.

“AW25 in Paris reaffirmed that true luxury is rooted in clarity, craftsmanship, and conviction. While some houses redefine their identity, others are at the height of their influence, setting the standard for the season ahead,” concluded Longland.